Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
